For their fourth eatery, the ambitious Pubbelly gang ventures beyond its Sunset Harbor neighborhood as safety zone. At Macchialina Taverna Rustica, the food’s authentic Italian, while the address formerly occupied by Sylvano is shabby Alton Road. The former is the reason why diners don’t mind the latter, though spruced up with homey Tuscan touches like antique bricks and dark wood. In another twist, an outsider was brought on board in the form of Michael Pirolo, previously Scarpetta’s chef de cuisine. He’s cooking up veal cheek and pork polpettine, perfect pizzas and polenta, and a refreshingly inventive take on tiramisu with espresso granita.