With splashy dining destinations like BLT Steak on Sam Gorenstein’s resume, it turned a few toques whenthe James Beard nominee departed for humbler digs. My Ceviche, the young chef’s no-frills, takeout concept is based on the snack stands dotting his native Colombia’s coast. His tight space with partner Roger Duarte of George Stone Crab means no room for freezers and storage, so ingredients whether line-caught, local fish or herbs from the morning market are some of the freshest in Florida. Ceviches flavored with Asian and aji amarillo recipes among six total, come with a cute bag of spiced popcorn.